Cafe Culture

As I’ve noted before in this blog, cafes or ‘coffee shops’ as they’re often called here, are very popular for Vietnamese of all walks of life. Students – of which there are many, with over half the population under 30 – like to go in big groups and sit on a fruit shake for an hour or five. Well – heeled types come to the more expensive ones in District 1 to pose and play with their latest hi-tech accessory. And anyone with a laptop likes to take advantage of the free wifi, which is pretty much a given these days. Hanging out in cafes is high on the list of freetime activities here in Saigon. They are generally quite big, often covering multiple levels, and those aimed at the younger generation have flashy interiors and loud techno/dance music. But there are a few places that are starting to do their own thing.

The ‘Hi End’ Café has 3 branches around central Saigon. The name may conjure images of something sleek and luxe, but this café is far from that. It’s a study in cream, beige and brown. The tables are covered with what look like old pieces of checked picnic rug. In the evening the lights are turned right down and each table is candle lit. It might sound a little drab, but what is distinctive about this place is not what can be seen. It’s that each of the Hi End cafés has a hand made sound system, which with its assortment of valves, speakers etc. takes up most of the back wall….

As can be deduced from my inadequate description above, I’m not someone who has ever put too much thought into the technicalities of sound systems. I would probably not care too much about this feature of this café, that is, if I had not experienced its effect. This contraption produces a purring, warm, velvety sound, which along with the low lighting and somewhat log cabin-ish interiors creates a unique and very intimate atmosphere. And the choice of music is befitting of the retro stylings of the sound system. They play a selection of jazz, folk, and various crooners and balladeers, mostly from at least 30 or so years ago. Nothing anywhere near abrasive, just smooth sounds, at the perfect volume to set the mood but not distract. No wonder there were so many canoodling young couples here. If you’re like the average young Vietnamese person, living in a small house with extended family and very little personal space, I could see why you’d be lingering here with your darling.

We follow the signs to the ‘Princess and the Pea’ café, down a quiet alley in District 1, into a nondescript building and up four levels. Before the final flight of stairs to its entrance, shelves of footwear indicate that shoes are to be removed. It’s the first sign that the Princess and the Pea is fairytale theme meets Zen simplicity. We enter a space not much bigger than a living room. There are no chairs, just thin square cushions and low tables. It feels a bit dark and sombre, but then I start to notice the details. The drink coasters are squares of floral printed cord, and the same fabric is used on the lamp shades, which are not actually attached to lamps. To accommodate the modest space, the “lamps” are 2 dimensional wood fashioned to look like a 3 dimensional lamp, and attached to the wall with a light bulb behind them. Surplus mini size cushions are stowed away in the tiny tables. A more literal tribute to the fairytale is found at the end of the room; a dozen child size mattresses piled up with a bamboo ladder resting against them. And embedded into each table is a photo of a somewhat androgenous looking figure, crashed out on the pile of matresses, with wild hair and limbs akimbo. There are also tasteful fairytale themed prints on the purple walls.

I suspect the pint-sized waitress may be playing a role in the fairytale too. Her manner of serving us is gentle and respectful, but she doesn’t say a word and keeps her distance, like an obedient servant.  And she is dressed in a floral printed peasant style dress (which I notice is the same fabric as the curtains). Overall this cafe has a restrained vibe, but with sweet and whimsical flourishes too. I admire the person who has used a small space so cleverly and to such good effect.

These cafes are unique and inspiring, and successful, given the full tables when we visited. It’s refreshing to see something different. And as I wander around central Saigon, seeing other new hand painted signs leading down alleys and up narrow staircases, there maybe a few more to come.